Riga and Jurmala

Latvian National Library

Monday, October 1

Riga on a sunny day has a whole new look, and without a whipping wind as we crossed the bridge, there was time to enjoy the views of the city ahead and the new National Library on our side of the river.  Rather than head to the Old Town, we began the day nearby at the city’s Central Market, which is housed in and around a series of World War I Zeppelin hangars. 

One hangar held nothing but an enormous quantity and variety of fish and seafood, another had just meat, but significantly less of it on this day.  In addition to fruits, vegetables, breads, alcohol and dairy products, all manner of household items, medicine, health and beauty aids, clothing, shoes, hardware, even what looked like used auto parts were on offer in the sprawling marketplace.

Just beyond the market stalls, in an area referred to as Riga’s Moscow Suburb, the massive Latvian Academy of Science looms over the neighborhood.  Indeed, we’ve been able to see the huge building from all over the city and it was more than a little familiar to us.  A less-than-welcome “gift” from Stalin’s Russia, it strongly resembles the seven similar (but larger) towers in Moscow and another (equally pleasing gift) in Warsaw.  Elsewhere in Riga’s Little Moscow, many of the original wooden houses remain.  

As we walked along the river back toward Old Town, though, there was evidence of a neighborhood in transition.  Former warehouses have been converted into shops, offices, restaurants, and apartments; gentrification comes to Riga! 

After another walk around the Old Town, we returned to our apartment and picked up the car for a short trip out of the city.  We headed for Jurmala, less than 15 miles, though it seemed like a world away.  Known as the Baltic version of the French Riviera, Jurmala is actually 14 townships strung out along a 20-mile stretch of beautiful sand beach.  Resort hotels tout their spa treatments along with the sun, sand and surf, but the towns have other attractions for visitors. 

Architecturally, there are thousands of wooden houses, many with intricate exterior embellishments, including domes and turrets.  Many of these sprawling homes have been beautifully maintained or restored, others are almost falling down, still more are in transition and they’re all interspersed with sleek contemporary homes and apartments.  

We walked along Jonas iela, the pedestrian street that connects two of the townships.  It’s lined with shops, restaurants and small wooden stalls selling souvenirs, many of which were closed on this October day, as was the performing arts center. Nevertheless, there were lots of people walking on the beach and boardwalk, and we even spotted a swimmer – without a wet suit!

Jurmela is surely a lively place during the summer months, but it’s hard to believe that the crowds that surely inhabit the towns during that time make it any more charming. It’s not hard to understand why Russian tycoons and their spa-going wives flock to Jurmala, along with visitors from nearby Riga; it’s an absolutely delightful place and we’re happy to have had a chance to see it.