Family reunion in Tykocin

Wednesday, September 19
Today was a journey into the history of the Sokolowicz family, Tom’s maternal grandfather’s siblings and ancestors, in the small town where they lived.  Thanks to the research and connections Vicki has made, we were welcomed by their decendants like the family we are.

Tykocin is about a half-hour’s drive from Bialystok and our guide, Anna, met us there to do double duty as both guide and translator today, and she certainly got a workout!  Before meeting the extended family, we visited the synagogue, the small town’s most notable site. Prior to World War II, the town had a thriving Jewish population of about 2500; all were exterminated in one day in August, 1941.  Though no Jews currently live in Tykocin, the synagogue – now a museum – is an important destination for Jewish visitors, among others.  The baroque bimah dominates the center of the soaring space, and the oak Aron kodesh, which once contained the Torah scrolls, is elaborately decorated.  The white walls of the synagogue were covered with prayers and Biblical verses, and have been restored.  Despite the massacre of the town’s Jews, the synagogue escaped destruction by either the Nazis or the Russians, as each used it as a warehouse.

Across from the synagogue, the building that once housed the Yeshiva is now a museum showcasing artifacts of traditional Polish life and lovely paintings of local scenes by Zygmunt Bujnowski.

As we made our way along the town’s main road, Anna chatted with several locals, all of whom knew Andrew Sokolowicz, with whom Vicki has been corresponding, and who we’d be joining for lunch with other members of the extended family.  As we neared his home, he met us and accompanied us as we visited the main market square fronting the Church of the Holy Trinity.  Anna translated for us as Andrew shared some of the local lore.  Inside the church where generations of Sokolowiczs have prayed, been baptized, and married, Andrew pointed out a particular angel adorning one of the pillars; her face is that of one of the family’s women, who had been a benefactor of the church. Our time there was very moving, especially for Vicki, who had used the church records for much of her genealogical research.

We made our way back along the square to Andrew’s house, where many other family members had gathered for lunch.  We kept Anna very busy as the Polish-English conversation was pretty much nonstop, and coming at her from all sides.  Among those present was Maria, whose father was one of two of  Tom’s grandfather's siblings taken by the Nazis to a work camp in retaliation for the murder of  a high ranking German; both brothers died in the camp.  Two other brothers became members of the United States Army after they were liberated at the end of  the war.  The minute another cousin – who had come from Warsaw with her grandson – arrived, we were all struck by her remarkable resemblance to Tom’s mother; it was a memorable moment, indeed!

As family connections, relationships, and stories were shared, so was an abundant feast; the table was laden with traditional dishes, which were constantly replenished by Andrew’s wife and mother, who rarely left the kitchen.  The number of desserts they produced matched the variety of items that had preceded them, and it certainly would have been impolite to refuse to partake!

After we all gathered in front of the house for Anna to take a family photo, Andrew and his sister (whose name, along with most of the others’, I never managed to get) accompanied us to visit several other local places of interest, including a small forested bison enclosure, an isolated stone fortress museum (closed), the chapel of a former Benedictine monastery, and a churchyard cemetery, where several members of the Sokolowicz family lie.  As Anna had left us after lunch and Google Translate left much to be desired, there was much pointing, repeating, nodding, and shrugging!

Before Anna departed, she’d made arrangements for us to have an English-language guide explain the exhibits in the partially restored Tykocin castle.  Tom, Jamie and I climbed up to the tower to take in the views of the countryside and the town across the Narew River.

Our last stop was one more family gathering, this time at Maria’s home, for yet another array of cakes and pastries. She is the director of the synagogue museum, and author of several books of local history, which Vicki is well acquainted with.  Each is very interested in the other’s finds, and they’ll be sharing what they’ve uncovered.

As dusk arrived, we headed back to Bialystok, tired but aware of what a remarkable day it had been.  Tykocin’s small size belies its significance; the fact that the synagogue, church and an array of original buildings avoided destruction despite the carnage the Nazis wrought, makes it a notable site for Poles. For our small band of visiting cousins, its importance is even greater!